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12 Top Choices in the Champagne Region

Champagne. The very word conjures up images of elegant celebrations, even though bubbles sell at various price points. RealFoodTraveler.com welcomes award-winning writer, Irvina Lew, who guides us through 12 top choices in the Champagne region and suggests some special corks to pop at home.

Champagne region grapes photo by Sean Coolish.

Champagne grapes. Photo by Sean Coolish.

While sparkling wines are produced in wine regions world-wide, Champagne is unique. To be legally called Champagne, it must be produced in the Champagne Region from hand-harvested grapes grown in the UNESCO-listed region.

This Fall, along with several other writers, I visited the Champagne region of France, with the Champagne Bureau, U.S.A., which represents the Comité Champagne. The trade organization was established by producers during WWII, to protect wines that were being pilfered; today, it represents more than 300 producers and it protects its brand by conducting research, promoting quality control and educating consumers. We visited maisons (Champagne Houses) and some small grower-producers all of which welcome paying guests, by appointment; we toured vineyards and cellars and sampled wines at tastings and at meals. Serendipitously, a representative from Moet Hennessy also invited us all to preview Les Journées Particulières, when Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy (LVMH) hosts free, open-to-the-public visits to Krug, Moet & Chandon, Ruinart and Veuve Clicquot.

Here are my 12 choices for what to do in the Champagne region of France:

1. Take a Day-trip to Reims, from Paris

Reims (rhymes with dance) is the historic capital of the region and reached in less than an hour from Paris. Here, the triumphal arch dates to Roman times; at Place du Forum, there’s an 11th century Romanesque Basilique St. Remi; and, the gothic Cathédrale Notre Dame, is a 13th century edifice built on the place (square) where 25 kings have been crowned since 816. During World War I, 1914-1918, it was bombed daily, as was 80% of the historic city. Ford, Rockefeller and Carnegie (who also donated the nearby Art Deco library), funded its restoration. Subsequently, Marc Chagall designed its magnificent, biblically-themed, stained-glass windows.

Historic Reims in the Champagne region. Photo by Sean Coolish.

Historic Reims. Photo by Sean Coolish

 2. Experience a Crayère at a Grande Maison

These three are among the few major houses in Reims that store their wines in the cool, vast underground crayères. The legendary, multi-storied chalk cellars with inter-connecting tunnels remain since Roman times, were used to quarry stones in the middle ages and to protect citizens from war-time bombing. Ruinart, the oldest maison, dates from 1729, and Thomas Jefferson is said to have been a fan. It was established immediately after King Louis XV made it legal to transport Champagne in bottles, in 1728. He served it to noble guests and was the first royal to celebrate with Champagne! Champagne Taittinger, c. 1734 is one of the largest properties, remains independently owned, uses environmentally-friendly techniques and makes Champagne with more Chardonnay grapes than Pinot Noir or Meunier varieties. At Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin, the word veuve (widow), on the recognizable golden-orange label refers to Madame Clicquot. Born Barbe Nicole Ponsardin, she was only 27 when her husband died (1805) and barely past 30 when she established the still celebrated brand. Madame also invented the wooden riddling rack (some say she cut a wooden table in half and made holes on both sides!), on which bottles are stored by the neck at a 45-degree angle. It helps yeast coagulate, so when it is removed the wine is clear when the bottle is cork-sealed.

A riddling rack to keep bottles at the right angle in the Champagne Region. Photo by Sean Coolish.

A riddling rack keeps bottles at an ideal 45-degree angle. Photo by Sean Coolish.

3. Dine in the historic center-city

Choose a bustling bistro, like the authentic, Café du Palais which has been family-owned since 1930. Or, splurge on a gastronomic meal, at one of the Michelin-starred restaurants, such as le Millenaire, where father and son create dishes in a smart, contemporary space. And, look for the authentic, local pastry on any menu, or in a shop. Biscuit rose de Reims is a pink cookie that dates from 1690, when it was left to dry in the hot bread oven, after the bread was removed.

4. Learn to Cook a la Française

Book a hands-on cooking class with chef Eric Geoffrey at his atelier Au Piano du Chef, where he incorporates great local products (and sells some), teaches French techniques–including how to use a torch to flambée–and makes typical dishes, which you will eat.

5. Travel the Route Touristique

The Champagne Trail is a picturesque, vineyard-bordered, 40-mile road that links Reims with Epernay, the capital of the industry. It’s lined with teeny, historic villages and dozens of small producers.

The Route Touristique in the Champagne Region. Photo by Sean Coolish.

The Route Touristique. Photo by Sean Coolish.

 6. Tour l’Abbaye d’Hautvillers

Benedictine monk Deus Optimus Maximus (D.O.M.) Pierre Perignon, aka Dom Perignon, died in 1715 and is buried at Abbaye d’Hautvillers.

Legend credits the cellar master with creating Champagne, by chance. He tried to eliminate the bubbles that formed during fermentation, but failed. One day, he realized its taste sensation: “Come quick, I am drinking the stars!”

 7. Sip, Sup, Stay and Spa at Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa

Royal Champagne, is a newly built, 49-room, ultra-luxe Relais & Chateaux affiliate that overlooks vineyards and Epernay–from rooms, restaurants and terraces, indoor and outdoor pools and the Biologique Recherche spa. Michelin-starred Chef Jean Denis Rieubland, (MOF, Best Cook France, 2007) heads the (équipe) kitchen staff and Karim Loqrifi, Chef Concierge and Clefs d’Or member, organizes transportation from the train, and entrée to private maisons.

Royal Champagne hotel in Champagne Region.

A view of the Royal Champagne pool, terraces and vineyards.

8. Lunch at Chateau de Sacy

Lunch at Les Vignes (vines), under umbrellas, on a vineyard-edged terrace at Château de Sacy, a renovated 12-room country inn within a Napoleonic manse, c. 1850 under a Mansard roof.

9. Try a tasting at a small, grower-producer

We visited these small, multi-generational, family vignerons (winemakers) who welcome guests, by appointment. At Lacourte-Godbillon, an organic vineyard in Eceuil, Geraldine LaCourte introduces her husband, Richard Desvignes’ wines. At certified organic Champagne Bruno Michel, Pauline is the vigneron and namesake of her dad’s Cuvée Pauline. Alexandre Penet, vigneron at Champagne Penet-Chardonnet, produces wine from family-owned (for 400 years), Grand Cru (the best designated) vineyards. Cellars at Champagne Philipponnat date from the 18th century; vigneron Charles Philipponnat produces Clos des Goisses, from grapes grown in a walled vineyard nearly 100-years old.

The Bruno Michael Cellars in the Champagne Region. Photo by Sean Coolish.

Pauline at the Bruno Michael Cellars. Photo by Sean Coolish.

10. Discover Epernay

Epernay is a small, beautiful, walkable city with opulent 19th century mansions. It’s home to Avenue de Champagne, said to be the richest street in the world, because of the astronomic value of the Champagne stored underground, in miles of cellars. Book a cellar tour and tasting at Moet & Chandon, by far the largest landowner in Champagne with 2500 acres, where Chef du Cave Benoit Gouez is Winemaker of the Year, 2013.

11. Consider my advice, if you go:

Book a ride on Rail Europe for the TGV train to Reims from Paris, 45 minutes (or from Charles de Gaulle airport, in an hour).
Book tours and tastings on line, before you go.
Take a taxi or book a tour, IF your driver drinks.
Cut costs by ordering prix-fixe (fixed price) menus at meals, they include: entréeplat (main dish) and dessert.
Stay overnight, to best appreciate the countryside.
Visit venues, even if a meal or a stay is prohibitive. Splurge on a coffee, a bière or a coupe(Champagne) just to feel the ambiance.
Greet people with Bonjour (Boh-jur= hi) and Au Revoir (oh revwa= bye) and say Merci (may-see = thanks).

12. Toast Champagne
Champagne is delicious and pairs with every food. So, choose one, raise a glass and say Salut (sa-loo = Cheers), whether you visit the Champagne Region, or party at home!

 

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